'Nothing has influenced and improved my cooking more than living in France. How could it not? France has lightened my touch, refined my palate and broadened my repertoire.' Martha Rose Shulman 'Chez Martha Rose'

We are in the gastronomic heart of France here. Tradition is the base of a heritage of French cooking that has been handed down through the generations. Cooking that has developed from a basic need to survive, into the delicacies of French cuisine.

What we see happening in the South West today is a progression forward from this basic need of survival to a refinement in these traditional dishes. The basse-cour being brought to the table. Meats of farm yard depth slow cooked to succulence. The base ingredient of rendered poultry fat is far more healthy for one than butter but the whole is then degreased to leave just the flavour. As Paula Wolfert puts it 'I often use these animal fats for taste, the way I use a cinnamon stick in a red wine compote of fruits: I add it for flavour in the cooking , but take it out before the fruits are served.'

What we endeavour to do on the Gastronomic weeks is show you just how this works and how wonderfully enticing the results can be. Truffles and Foie Gras feature in the Prestige week but both weeks deal with morning demonstrations by local chefs or James and Diana about the wonders of food (and wine) in general and to bring out just what it is that makes chefs enthuse so much about the area.

Night before, blanche 16 stoned green olives to remove salt, and soak overnight in cold water and cognac)

Serves 4

2 pigeons
4 tbs butter
4 shallots
1 spanish onion
1lb unsmoked bacon
1 tbs flour
½ pt stock
1 tbs parsley
seasoning
thyme, marjoram
16 stoned green olives (see above note)
4 tbs cognac

Brown pigeons.

Finely chopped shallots, onion and diced unsmoked bacon in pan - sauté till golden; sprinkle with flour.

When flour combined with butter, all stock and stir till comes to the boil.

Skim well. Return pigeons to sauce with parsley and salt and pepper, thyme, marjoram.

Cover casserole and simmer gently 2 hours.

20 mins before done add stoned olives (olives blanched to remove salt, and soaked overnight in cold water and cognac)

Remove cover and continue cooking.