| Duration | Distance | Price Per Person | Single Room Supplement |
|---|---|---|---|
| 8 Days | 41 Miles | €1950 per person | €360 |
| Departure Dates | |||
| 2nd – 9th, 16th – 23rd June | |||

We do hope in the next few years to have three walks running in Italy; in Umbria, Tuscany and the Veneto. Linking all three, apart from the usual attention to detail on the gastronomic front, will be the thirteenth century artists who have worked in all three areas : Giotto and Giovanni Pisano. Amongst the other great artists whose works we will see in the Italy walks will be Piero della Francesca, Fra Angelico and Simone Martini as well as the Lorenzetti brothers but, most of all, these are landscape/gastronomic weeks like all the weeks in France and the beauty of Italian art history will be there to colour them all the more.

But we concentrate now on Umbria. This will be a mixture of stunningly dramatic landscape. In the Monti Sibellini it will include a visit to the tiny desolate lake, the Lago di Pilato (the supposed death bed of Pontius Pilate) as well as two other days walking around the crater of Castelluccio. An extraordinary plethora of flowers here in June, in fact one of the wonders of the flower world, but even in September it is awesomely beautiful.
Olive oil groves abound at the foot of Monte Subasio intermingled with the Umbrian Sagrantino vineyards and we will be visiting two very different sorts of winemakers. Giovanni who makes wonderful Sagrantino wine and virgin pressed olive oil which is sold all over Italy, and Ambrogio whose wine is served in a concrete vat on his farm. This is wine made the old-fashioned way. Not only does Ambrogio make his own wine which we will be sampling together with his own unfiltered olive oil but also his own hams and salamis. Definitely no additives here. This is self sufficiency in the extreme with pigs, rabbits, chickens and cows. When we last visited Ambrogio, his wife kept filling us up with freshly cut slices of their salamis. After all their generosity we felt we must offer them some of our own produce which we had bought that morning, but they would not touch anything they thought might be commercially tainted!

Gastronomy is as high on the list as ever. Truffles will feature in the cuisine of the chef of the Grotta Azurra hotel in Norcia and we will have a morning truffle hunt with Nicola and Nina, his beautiful chocolate cocker. When I was there in November, within three minutes we had found six truffles. Norcia is a tiny circular walled village at the foot of the Sibellini mountains which is famed for its charcuterie of wild boar and the truffles it has. After seeing how they hunt for truffles, in the evening we will sample the most delicious gnocchi imbued with black truffle and finished off with a grating of white. Pure hedonism. I say this as there is something distinctly hedonistic in the smell of a good truffle - something to do with pheromones. Also on the menu in the week will be oven-baked pizza, vitello, carciofi, oodles of olive oil, and of course … gelato!
Norcia itself is incredibly pretty with its small square (sheltering one excellent gelateria for clandestine enthusiasts). The wall has seven gates that are supposed to represent the seven vestal virgins who stand to protect the village. The two stark white churches in the square are a dramatic contrast to the strange castle that sits on another side and the classical porphyry loggia that stands opposite. This all beneath the stark Sibellini mountains rising as a cragged backdrop behind.

We shall also be staying in the beautiful more gentle landscape of the foothills of Monte Subasio. Before walking through the vineyards and olive groves of the Valle di Spoleto we will do an early morning visit to the great basilica of San Francesco and view the famous frescoes painted by Giotto . More time will be spent in the tiny chapel of Saint Martin painted by Simone Martini. Here we will see the difference between the Sienese artists and those from Florence - the difference between a solid placement in space and an extraordinarily beautiful sense of line and grace.
Perugia will be our last port of call. This is a fine Etruscan city that H.V. Morton described as one in which he could well imagine how easy it was to murder someone in the Middle Ages. The meeting between Sparafucile and Rigoletto could not better be placed (though sadly this was not here). The alleys are narrow and dark and they run off the wonderful Corso Vannucci in a myriad of iniquity. At the end of the Corso lies the Duomo half veneered in pink marble and with the pulpit on the outside wall where San Benedetto deplored the Flagellants and there in front of the Duomo stands one of the most beautiful fountains in all Italy the Fontana Maggiore sculpted by Nicola and Giovanni Pisano in the thirteenth century. Of course, being the last day, this would be an ideal opportunity for shopping.

The flowers are in such quantity and so sporadic almost spontaneous. They are like the Italian cuisine all spontaneity and fluster with deep found flavours. Such a contrast to French cuisine which is of course all arrogance and ‘savoir faire’. We have chosen to walk in Umbria as it is an area we know well and it is less trodden and generally less familiar than Tuscany or Cinque Terre. A little green gem and the birthplace of two of the most important Italian saints: Benedict and Francis.
You will be met in Rome at the Fiumicino airport for the BA afternoon flight arrival (scheduled at the moment for 16.15) by James and Diana and driven to the beautiful hotel: Le Silve. Le Silve lies behind Assisi in 600 hectares of Monte Subasio woodland and has stunning views over to Perugia and to the whale back mountain of Monte Subasio. It has its own deer and pigs which it carefully nurtures and has always reminded Diana and I of a Kenya Safari Lodge with its beautiful marqueed terrace and wonderful swimming pool. The cooking too is excellent and you spend your first three days here in rural bliss.
You awake to the beauty of the hillsides and a lovely breakfast. Warm cornetti (croissants filled with a little crema) and excellent coffee and of course orange juice from succulent blood oranges are the highlights. Otherwise cheeses, salamis and cereals, biscotti and home-made jams and yoghurts fill the table at Le Silve. After breakfast we move off on foot down hill through the oak forests with distant views of Assisi for the farmhouse of Ambrogio and Gentile. No mules yet as this is an easy gentle downhill walk (with just a few ups as well!). The farmhouse we will see is a totally rural Slow Food style affair with pigs, chickens, cows, sheep, rabbits. It is all well ordered and totally self-sufficient. My goodness the quality of food that they eat there! We will meet Ambrogio and Gentile and picnic with Diana in the fields before having a demonstration by Gentile of how she makes traditional pasta with a rolling pin. In the afternoon there is a chance to take it easy in the beauty of Le Silve to read, swim or paint or a chance again to walk back through the valley below. 4 miles + optional 4 miles
After an early morning breakfast, we leave by car for Assisi and the great Christian masterwork: San Francesco. We will have a look at the outstanding fresco cycles attributed to Giotto of the beginning of 14th century and then, in the lower church, spend some time on the magical chapel of San Martino painted by Simone Martini only ten years later. We will see instantly the difference between the Sienese and Florentine schools. Both majestically beautiful but one more concerned with a two dimensional surface and the beauty of line and expression and the other preoccupied with the sense of mass in space. We move on then by car for a walk to the pretty walled medieval village of Bevagna. Lunch here ‘alla tavola’ with the beautiful Assunta. A walk after lunch to Montefalco visiting at the end of the day the fresco cycle of Bennozzi Gozzoli hidden away in a tiny white-washed church. Return by car to Le Silve. Dinner in the beauty of flood-lit Assisi. 8 miles
We leave in the vehicles for Spello prettily perched on the side of the whale back Monte Subasio. We will take a quick look at the delightful Pintoricchio frescoes in Santa Maria Maggiore before a wine tasting with one of the top wine agents of Italy Roberto Angelini. Here we will taste some absolutely delicious top quality and rare Italian wines with some regional delicacies and spend a wonderful time idling into lunch in the street sunshine. We will then continue by car after lunch to the drama of the Sibellini mountains famous for truffles, pork and nefarious necromancy! We will drive to be dropped off for a walk into the 13th century walled village of Norcia nestled at the foot of the mountains. There will be time in the evening to wander in the peaceful piazza before dining at the Grotta Azzurra. You will stay the next three nights at the Grotta Azzura Hotel in the centre of this tiny town. It is a wonderful ancient hotel with true Fellini character: lots of action, “Mama mia!” and “Madonna!” and doors flapping to and fro. We have a great welcome from Anna and Carlo Bianconi and this is the perfect place to start the Sibillini experience! 5 miles
You awake to the peel of the church bells. After blood red orange juice and strong black coffee and all other breakfast delights we leave behind the curtain wall of Norcia and climb the mountains in the vehicles to meet Roberto our muleteer and the mules to set off for the mornings walk through the beautiful beech woods to Sant’ Eutizio. This small abbey was a founding stone of the Benedictine movement and we will eat lunch in the tiny ristorante opposite. After lunch we will get to the top of the hill by driving! Then an easy long walk downhill with beautiful views towards the charming village of Visso. We will hopefully see many butterflies before we arrive for the joys of Visso gelato. Return by vehicle to Norcia. Dinner at the Beccofino restaurant hopefully outside in the Piazza where Signora Benafica has been cooking excellent Umbrian cuisine for forty years. 10 miles
Our last breakfast at the Grotta Azzurra and a wonderful day of walking to the glacial crater of Castelluccio. This is indeed a marvellous sight. We are quite high here at about 1450 metres but the climbing is stunning and not too steep. The scrub hugs the hills like beize to a billiard table and spinneys of beech are scattered like sporadic limpets on a rock. The flowers are excellent, indeed the glacial crater can be turned into one of the great flower wonders of the world with a plethora of stunning colour hitting you as you walk over the top of the peak. Poppies, lentil flowers, meadow clary, orchids and peonies are high up on the list, even the thistles are lovely! We will walk up with Roberto and the mules, before a well earned drink in Castelluccio. Then a picnic lunch with one of Diana’s delicious Italian picnics and with fantastic scenery around before we continue on another circuit to see the innumerable other flowers. We drive back for a lesson on how to make tortellini in the stone vaulted kitchen with the head chef of the Grotta Azzurra. Dinner at the Grotta Azzurra.
10 miles
We leave the beauty of the Sibillini mountains and drive to the beautiful abbey of San Pietro in Valle built by a Lombard Emperor who saw the light. We visit the abbey before driving into Spoleto, the ancient city republic which the Romantic poet Shelley called ‘the most romantic city ever’. We will lunch in one of the squares of Spoleto and take an afternoon off in siesta or shopping fashion. There will be time to relax and wander around the Spoleto streets before dinner.
We drive across the country in the vehicles for a chance to see the magnificent city of Orvieto which sits like the Acropolis in majesty on a dramatic rock outcrop dominated by its towering Gothic cathedral. We will visit the great fresco cycle by Signorelli which blames mankind for his woes. Extraordinary depictions of damnation and Armageddon, the Apocalypse and the end of the world! It is the fresco cycle to finish the week! We lunch opposite the cathedral before continuing to Rome in the vehicles. Of course there is always the option to stay a couple of days in Rome and we would be delighted to help with that itinerary.
NOTE: This tour starts & ends at the Rome airports of Fiumicino and Ciampino. The itinerary is subject to change according to local conditions. All mileages shown are approximate
